Backwaters in Kerala

Time and day offs are the scarcest resources apart from finances 😊

Grabbing the Opportunity

Kerala Backwaters was always in my bucket list. And somehow it earned a jinx that however I tried it was eluding me. This year I again got the chance to visit Kerala.

It was one of my close friend's marriage. The invitation made was an amazing mix of request and an exercise of her right on me so much so that in spite of no leaves left at the end of the year, with 2 small kids to be taken care of at home, I commited to her.
So I had 5 days in hand - 3 days for tourism and 2 days for my friend.

Prioritizing is the mantra

Tips on 'Parameters to consider for planning trips' in order of importance - 

1. Nature of travellers (backpacker/leisure/luxury, etc.) +
2. Interests + 
3. Similar places already visited in lately+ 
4. Research and reviews from internet + 
5. Finances

Breaking down the parameters as my example - 

1. I decided to travel alone, which meant indefinite freedom with little caution
2. I had been to Darjeeling only a month ago - so no Munnar for me as both places have sprawling tea gardens
3. Main interest was the backwaters
4. Reviews suggested canoe for boating which I also liked. Houseboats were out for me - I wanted to spend only on the time spent out on the boat, not in rooms in the boat.
5. I wanted to not deviate much from Kochi - Thrissur circle. So no Trivandrum/Kovalam which is very southern was not for me.

So I had Kochi, Kumarakom/Alleppey thekkady, Thrissur, Athirapally on my wish list but narrowed down to a backwater and one forest visit for me.

Blogs vs. other sources

There are innumerable guidance on the internet. I find the blogs more informative than tourism sites.
Kerala Backwaters

Backwaters

Alleppey or Kumarakom: 

Primarily two places are famous for backwater - Alleppey & Kumarakom. As I understood, Alleppey is at par with the water level and Kumarakom is at a height from the water level. Alleppey is quite commercialized whereas Kumarakom is less. I would have preferred for Alleppey homestay with water caressing my feet while I sit on the verandah. This I could not get at Kumarakom. The next morning I had to reach Thekkady by 10. So I went for a homestay at Kumarakom called Coconut Creek. 

Homestay

The homestay was clean, provided all basic amenities like geyser in bathroom, towel, etc. The food was very delicious. The only drawback was its location. It didn't onlook a river or the backwaters (don't fall for the picture of a canal in front of the homestay shown on the website. It's just a drain now infested and clogged by weeds). I was there for just an evening so I managed with it.

Houseboats

There are primarily 3 kinds of boats - 1. Houseboats /the rice boats for overnight stay with 1 or 2 rooms, single or double storey with some place to sit outside. The more the facilities the more noisy the diesel engine. 2. Canoe or country boats, with no roof over and rowed manually, 3. Shikara kind of boats, with a roof and driven by diesel engine.

The choices are very personal.

I chose not to stay in the houseboat because inside it will be just like any hotel room. At nights the boat is anchored mostly at places which is quite crowded and depots of similar boats with mosquitoes. So no advantage of night stay in the boat. Another aspect I discovered when I went for boat ride, was that, the tremendous noise the houseboats make due to the diesel engine used to power up the AC and other amenities going. The noise not only disturbed the people on board but also on other boats and the environment in a huge way.

The sound of silence

I went for a 2 hour boat ride in shikara type of boat. My preference was a canoe based on many reviews and blogs. But it was late evening and shikara boat was the last and only option. It was a boon in disguise. The path of boat ride is through a narrow canal with houses on banks. After about 2 kilometers the route opens into a vast backwater with only water in all directions till the horizon. There is only one sound - the sound of silence (provided you are lucky enough to not have any diesel operated boats nearby). I had requested my boat man to put off the engine to enjoy the serenity and boat been drifted by the air. Here you can hear even the sound of wings of a flying bird. I lied on a leaning chair for 2 hours in midst of the vast water. The only sounds I could hear were of the ripples and my heartbeat, yes it was gleefully beating. 

Date of travel: December, 2016